Those are freaking awesome. Are they only available at O-Stores in Europe? Damn I want a pair.

Jamie, do you have a high res version of that you could send me?

Here is a tutorial that was written up on another forum I belong to.




First thing you need is a baseline RAW exposure. I always develope my RAW images in 16bit color, using the ProPhoto RGB color space. ProPhoto has the widest dynamic range of any RGB profile, You will need to later convert your images to a working profile for your monitor or printer.



Once your baseline exposure is generated, you will need to create the other images for your stack. I created 3 more exposures, each 1/3 of a stop underexposed. From here on out this will be refered to as "EV"

Once your images are created, you will need to strip them of any EXIF information. HDR photomerge is intended to be used with seperate exposures or film scans. The plugin reads exposure information from the EXIF tags in images, and will not function if it detects matching exposure times from the same file.

The easiest way to strip the EXIF information is to save the images in a format that does not support it. I converted each of my exposures to the sRGB color space, and saved them as .PCX images.



Once your images are prepped and saved, its time to load them into HDR photomerge, located in the "automate" section of the file menu. Select "Merge to HDR"



The first HDR merge menu will present you with options to load or select your source images. I loaded my 4 exposures in order, leaving the "Attemp to Automatically Align Source Images" box unchecked.



Once you click "OK" you will be presented with a menu asking to manually set the exposure level for each image. Just go through and enter the values from your conversions. In my case I started with the brightest image at 0 EV, and moved back from there -0.33, -0.66, and -1.00



With your images loaded, and exposure set, HDR will grind away for a minute and load up. The final menu will allow you to set the white point of your image, and the output bit depth. For now lets keep it at 32bit. Once you click ok, your HDR merge is finished, however at 32bit color depth, no printer can print it, and no monitor can technically display it. So its time to convert back to 8 bit color.



Select "Image > Mode > 8 bits/channel" and set your final exposure and gamma. And POOF your done! The only other adjustments I made to the image were Curves, Saturation, and Sharpening for print.

Forgot the non sunglass purchases.

Here is what I have gotten over the last couple months.

My wife got me the Radar and Flak Jacket as part of my wedding gift.

Ollie, are they in stores now?

I would get the mad science logo.

I was just logging in to post this too.
I ordered a sheet metal one.

I just tried and the regular lenses had both emerald and ruby options.

Where is it available? I can't seem to find it on the site.

Ok, those are awesome. I really like that combo.

Chester, what kind of cabinet is that? Is it a gun case?

Iggy, I have noticed that too. It is quite annoying.

The way this whole thing played out makes me wish I would have made more of an effort to find a pair.

When I called HQ they said I could buy a Ti band for $400.

When is it slated for release?

I called HQ a month or two ago and after talking to a few people I was quoted $400 for a titanium band. No one I talked to had said anything about them not being available to buy.

Here is some of my equipment

Canon 20D, Speedlite 580ex, and a 17-45 F4L







Taken with an SD800is